We don’t report every hotel restaurant opening and closing. But this week’s news that the John Dory Oyster Bar at the Ace Hotel would close on February 23 was noteworthy — and not just because we love their kedgeree.
This was our favorite restaurant at the Ace. Though it supposedly was designed as a tribute to New York’s oyster bar history, it reminded us of something out of London’s East End — or the raw bar at Bibendum. Part of it was the fish tank globes and the building’s original 1904 tile floor. But mostly it was food like the kedgeree, a rich, delicate mass of boiled rice, smoked haddock, parsley and ribbons of scrambled egg that deftly updated a hoary old British cliche. Read more